Grand Prix Performance - Costa Mesa, CA

Owning a car is a big investment. It requires regular maintenance to keep its value and to ensure your safety. To make sure you have a winning hand when it comes to caring for your vehicle, here are 21 of the best – and easiest – tips:

1. Examine your paint for new scratches frequently. 

Whatever the reason, you sometimes need to store your car. There are a number of things to do before you lock the door and walk away for a month or more. If you simply let your vehicle sit on the street or in a garage for an extended period of time, you may return to a dead battery or — worse yet — a damaged engine, ruined tires and a rat's nest under your hood.

Here's a list of important steps to take before you store a vehicle. Taking these precautions will not only ensure that your car starts when you return to it, but also ensure that its time in storage doesn't shorten the life of the engine.

Keep It Covered

The ideal place to store the vehicle is in a garage. This will protect it from the elements and keep it at a temperature that's relatively stable. If you don't have a garage, and you can find accommodation at a reasonable price, consider putting the car in a public storage facility.

If you have to leave the car outdoors, consider getting a weatherproof car cover. This will help keep the car clean and dry.

Clean It Up

It may seem counterintuitive to get the car washed when you're putting it away for months, but it is an easy step and one that shouldn't be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease or tar. For added protection, give the car a coat of wax.

Change the Oil

Skip this step if you're only storing the car for a week or two. But if you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Ford recommends this in its owner's manuals, saying that used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine.

Keep It Charged

An unattended battery will eventually lose its charge. If possible, get someone to start the car every two weeks and drive it for about 15 minutes. Driving the car periodically has two benefits. It will maintain the battery's charge, help the car "stretch its legs" and keep the engine and other components properly lubricated. It is also a good idea to run the air-conditioner to keep the parts in working order and the air quality fresh.

If you cannot arrange for someone to start the car, there are two other options. The low-tech solution is to disconnect the negative battery cable. You'll likely lose the stereo presets, time and other settings. If you want to keep those settings and ensure that your battery starts the moment you return, purchase a battery tender, also known as a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end and plugs into a wall outlet on the other. It delivers just enough electrical power to prevent the battery from discharging.

Don't Use the Parking Brake

It's usually a good idea to use the parking brake, but don't do it when you leave a car in storage. If the brake pads make contact with the rotors for too long, there is a chance that they might fuse. Instead of engaging the brake, you can purchase a tire stopper, also called a chock, to prevent the car from moving.

Prevent Flat Spots

Make sure your tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure. If a vehicle is left stationary for too long, the tires could develop flat spots as the weight of the vehicle presses down on the tires' footprints. This process occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures and with vehicles equipped with performance tires or low-profile tires.

In some cases, simply having someone drive the car for awhile will bring the tires up to their normal operating temperature and get rid of any flat spots. In more severe cases, a flat spot becomes a permanent part of the tire and you will need to replace the tire.

If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking the wheels off and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners. This step requires more work, but it can save you from needing a new set of tires. Without the weight of a vehicle resting upon them, your tires will be in much better shape when you return.

Maintain Insurance

You might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage. Although that might initially save money, there is a chance that the insurance company will raise your rates due to the gap in coverage, which could cost you more in the long run. This can vary based on where you live and who your provider is, so contact your insurance company to see what options are available to you.

With all the SUVs on the road today, you might think off-roading was the national pastime-or that four wheel drive (4WD) was a necessity. What is it about 4WD that puts it on so many people’s must-have list? And what’s the difference between it and other options?

THE LOWDOWN ON 4WD

During normal use, 4WD vehicles transfer the majority of engine power only to the rear wheels. But when additional traction is required, a lever can be switched that then transfers power to all four wheels. (So if one tire loses grip, there are now three others available to help instead of one.) This makes 4WD vehicles more maneuverable in rough terrain and bad weather. That’s why off-road vehicles, snow plows, and tow trucks all have it. The biggest downside to 4WD: It can add several thousand dollars to the sticker price of a new car. All wheel drive (AWD) is a form of 4WD where power is always transferred to all four wheels there’s no lever flipping involved.

Other options include:

FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE (FWD)

In this system, power from the engine is transferred to the front tires, offering increased traction and safety. FWD provides easier handling, especially in harsher weather and snow. Most of today’s popular, mid-priced cars have FWD. REAR-WHEEL DRIVE

With RWD, power from the engine is transferred to the rear tires, splitting the weight of the vehicle evenly between the front and back ends. This allows for better cornering and stopping power, and a smoother ride. Most pickup trucks, sports cars, and luxury sports sedans have RWD. The downside is that RWD cars are harder to handle in poor weather and are prone to spinouts.

Whether 4WD is the best option is probably a matter of opinion. While it’s certainly a nice option, all drive trains will get you where you are going. And keep you safe. 

It may not be the ultimate battle of man vs. machine, but it’s still a match–up worth considering: In the challenge to keep your baby free of dirt and grime, who’s got the right stuff you or the carwash? Here’s how the bucket and sponge compare to the drive–through.

DRIVE–THROUGH CARWASHES

They’re cheap and easy but does that make them worth it? Some say that today’s technology makes the drive–through completely safe on your car’s exterior and superior to hand washing. Others argue that the high impact of the cloths or brushes promotes surface scratches. Touchless or semi–touchless cloth or brush methods help prevent this. So do foam and high–pressure spray techniques. But the chemical agents used in them are typically harsh and can dull paint luster with continued use.

• The upside:

  If pressed for time, it’s the way to go. Can be cheaper, too. (The whole bevy of professional cleaning products add up at the register. Fast.)

• The downside:

  There’s potential for greater exterior wear over time.

  HAND WASHES

  For many car enthusiasts, a good old-fashioned hand wash is the only way to go. Despite the convenience of the carwash, a do-it-yourself wash gives you ultimate control over what touches your vehicle. And, if the right cleaning agents and tools are used, it can be a lot gentler on your car’s surface. What are the wrong ones? Think dishwashing and other harsh detergents, rough sponges and brushes. The right ones? Think professional car shampoos and micro fiber cloths.

▪ The upside:

You have complete control and pride of ownership. Your car benefits from a “softer touch.

▪ The downside:

It’s time-consuming and sometimes back-breaking. Soap and chemical run-offs aren’t environmentally friendly.

Whichever you choose, maintenance is important, whether you change your oil or wash your car. Accumulated dirt eventually works its way into the paint, leaving tiny scratches and dulling the surface. Not a good thing for you high-mileage enthusiasts. Regular washings keep your car looking its best for the longest possible time—and help retain its value. Lather up! 

These days, every little bit you can save at the pump helps especially if you’re planning a long haul. So how can you get the most bang for your gas buck?

1. Keep up with preventative maintenance.

It’s a simple fact: Well–maintained rides are more fuel efficient. Be sure to:

• Use the correct oil for your vehicle and style of driving. Heavy (high viscosity) oil will cause your car’s engine to work harder. Use the lightest grade of oil for your climate and season. Consult your owner’s manual to find out what grade is best suited for you.

• Maintain tire pressure and inspect tires. Every other fill, inspect your tires for under–inflation and excessive tread wear. Be sure to check manufacturer’s specifications/owner’s manual for proper inflation and rotation schedules. Also, consider low–profile tires. Larger tires can greatly reduce fuel efficiency.

• Make sure your coolant is mixed properly. Improperly mixed engine coolant can cause your engine to run hot and hamper fuel economy.

• Replace dirty filters. Dirty or clogged air and fuel filters can cause your car to work harder. A new and properly functioning air or fuel filter will provide better gas mileage.

A good waxing does more than make your car gleam in the sunshine: It also protects it from the elements. So how do you make your finish look its best—and last its longest?

You don’t have to wax every time you wash your car- a couple of times a year should suffice. If the finish begins to look a bit dull, or if water is no longer beading on the surface, then it’s likely that a new wax job is in order.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• A freshly washed vehicle. Wax adheres better to a clean surface. And leaving surface dirt on before waxing means you’ll work the particulates into the finish, causing scratches.

• A non-abrasive wax and sponge.

• Cheesecloth, micro fiber cloths, or cloth diapers for buffing. Avoid using old towels. Their stitching and detailing is done with polyester fibers that will scratch the surface.

• A shaded work area. Hot sun can bake the wax into the paint and damage the finish.

• About 30 minutes a little patience, and a lot of elbow grease.

  HOW TO APPLY

  • Use your sponge as the applicator, applying small amounts at a time and working it in well. Avoid using heavy globs. Larger amounts of wax don’t absorb any better. You’ll only be wasting your product.

  • Work in small areas of 2-3 square feet at a time. This ensures each section is coated evenly, and prevents the wax from hardening in one spot while you’re still working on another.

  • Use up and down strokes instead of a circular motion. This prevents swirls.

  • Read the product label for the manufacturer’s recommended drying time. When dry, buff the surface with your clean cloths. If the residue doesn’t buff easily, you either used too much wax or need a fresh cloth.

    WAXING TIPS

  • If you used too much wax, let your car sit in the sun for about 10 minutes. This will melt the wax and allow you to rework the surface. Use this same tip if you have streaks.

  • Shake out your cloths as you use them to prevent wax buildup.

  • Wax your car every 3-4 months. No product will last for up to a year, as many of them claim—unless you do minimal amounts of driving and garage-keep your car. 

How often do you check your tire pressure? If you’re like the majority of drivers, it’s not nearly often enough. And that’s a problem because tires are one of your car’s most important safety devices—right after the brakes. So why is either too much or too little pressure a bad thing.

• Too much pressure reduces the footprint of the tire. This means that less of the tire hits the road while driving, which creates more bouncing and less traction, and can seriously impact stopping distances.

• Too little pressure means more of your tire touches the pavement, and that increases friction and uneven wearing. It also increases the chances of overheating and tread separation—both of which can lead to reduced control in braking and cornering.

  Always check your owner’s manual or the sticker on the door jam of the car for the recommended tire pressure: Don’t go by what’s marked on your tires. That number is the maximum allowable air pressure—and it can be a lot higher than what’s actually right for your vehicle.

  Some tips on maintaining tire pressure:

• Check pressure once a month, or seasonally at the very least.

• Always take a “cold” measurement. That means check tires after they’ve been sitting for a few hours. A “hot” reading after you’ve been driving is usually less accurate.

• Don’t go by looks. Your tires could be over or under inflated by a good ten pounds and still look normal to the eye.

• If you’re heading out on a long road trip, check the tire pressure in all tires, including your spare before you leave, just to play it safe.

  • Be particularly mindful of your tires in the winter. Tires can lose up to one pound of pressure per square inch every time the temperature drops 10 degrees.

  • If possible, use a digital gauge to check the pressure. Other types tend to be less accurate.

    Regularly checking your tire pressure can help increase your car’s safety and performance—and help you get the maximum amount of mileage out of your tires. Isn’t it worth taking the five minutes to check? 

Oil serves several crucial functions in your car’s engine…and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. That’s why you should change your oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Why is oil so important? What’s the best type to use? We’re happy to tell you…

Motor oil’s prime function is to lubricate every moving part of your engine with a protective film that reduces friction. It also:

• Cleans your engine. Oil collects soot, ash, acids and other moisture that eventually forms sludge. Sludge, if accumulated on critical engine parts, accelerates wear. Oil helps prevent this by keeping particulates suspended until they’re drained away when you change your oil.

• Creates a seal around piston rings and cylinder walls. Without proper sealing action, you lose power and waste fuel.

• Protects your engine against rust and corrosion.

• Cools vital engine parts your radiator coolant can’t reach. In fact, as

• Much as 40% of the cooling job in your engine is performed by oil. 

If the engine is the heart of your car, think of the fuel injection system as its main artery: It is your car’s source for delivering fuel, or pumping the blood, to the engine. This used to be the carburetor’s job. But today, most cars use fuel injectors making service on the injection system a required part of your vehicle’s maintenance. But how do you know when it needs resuscitating?

First, it is good to know that fuel injection maintenance is not something you need to consider as frequently as say, oil changes. Generally, your vehicle’s injection system is good for the first 50,000 miles. At that point, you might want to consider a cleaning especially if you notice your car is:

• Hesitating

• Having trouble starting

• Getting poor gas mileage

• Overall sluggish

  These are all signs of deposit buildup, which can occur naturally over time. And it is no wonder, considering the fuel injection process:

• First, gas is pumped from the tank when you start the engine

• Next, it goes through filters, rails, and the injectors

  ▪ The injectors pump fuel into the engine’s combustion chamber, where it mixes with air and is ignited by the spark plugs creating combustion

  The heat generated by this process is intense, and the burning fuel can leave hardened carbon deposits on pistons, valves and fuel injector nozzle heads. The result can be restricted fuel flow and the need for occasional maintenance.