Grand Prix Performance - Costa Mesa, CA

With the fall season in full force and the winter season creeping in, it is important that we remember to pay attention to our wiper blades. Many wiper blades are causing drivers more harm than good by smearing when used or making a screeching noise that can sound like nails on a chalkboard. The problem is that many people overlook replacing their wiper blades, or go for the cheap version assuming they are all the same. Wiper blades are one of the easiest installations and least expensive.
However, not all blades are created equal, and you truly do get what you pay for. This is a component on your car that you should spend the extra dollar on to ensure a quality product. It isn’t much more expensive to go for the higher quality wiper blades and it will provide you with the peace of mind that your visibility won’t be hindered.
At the annual checkup held by the Car Care Council, almost 15% of vehicles on the road had wiper blades that required replacement. Is your vehicle one of those?  Bring your car into Grand Prix Performance and we’ll make sure you’re in good shape and won’t have any wiper blade troubles.

Not many people are aware that fuel injectors are extremely critical components that keep your car running smoothly. It is important that you keep them clean so that your fuel ignites easier and burns more evenly and efficiently. Not only does this save you money by improving your gas mileage, but it increases your horsepower. Vehicle fuel systems are generally very clean because today’s gasoline is designed for fuel injection and there are filters in the system that trap a bulk on unwanted dirt. However, it is still common for dirt to get past the filters and form a gummy residue. Symptoms that could indicate you have dirty fuel injectors include hard starting, rough idle, poor overall performance, and decreased gas mileage. These symptoms can be quickly resolved with proper fuel injector maintenance. It is recommended that injectors get cleaned at least every 30,000 miles or 24 months. Consider a tune up for your fuel system because it will dramatically improve your fuel efficiency and increase your horsepower.

Have your car winterized before the winter storm season sets in. Keeping your car in good condition decreases your chance of being stranded in cold weather. (And as you high-mileage enthusiasts already know, it also increases the life of your vehicle.) Have us check your battery, fluids, ignition system, thermostat, lights, exhaust system, heater, and brakes.  In your trunk, be sure to have a first aid kit, thermal blanket, a working flashlight, a shovel and sand. 

Even with four identical tires on your car, various factors will cause each of them to wear differently. Tire rotation helps equalize wear by allowing each tire to serve in as many wheel positions as possible. Evenly worn treads keep tires performing the same on all four corners and:

• Increase dry road performance with more balanced handling and traction.

• Make for quicker tire response times when braking.

• Allow you to replace tires in sets rather than individually or in pairs. (That means all your tires will include the latest technology and performance advancements that manufacturers are continually bringing to market: You won’t be forced to match yesterday’s product or performance.)

  A general rule of thumb is to rotate your tires every 5,000 to 8,000 miles—even if there are no visible signs of wear. If you own a front-wheel drive vehicle or do mostly city driving, more frequent rotation is advisable.

  What’s the correct rotation pattern of your tires? For rear and four-wheel-drive vehicles, a rearward cross pattern—or, alternatively, an X-pattern—is used. Front wheel drive vehicles use a forward cross or X-pattern. It’s always best to consult your owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommendations.

  After a rotation, be sure your mechanic has checked:

  • Individual tire pressure. The tire’s new location may affect how much pressure it now requires.

  • Vehicle alignment. This is important if irregular tire wear was evident. 

    Regular tire rotations are an important step in getting the maximum mileage out of your tire investment—so keep those wheels moving! 

With all the SUVs on the road today, you might think off-roading was the national pastime-or that four wheel drive (4WD) was a necessity. What is it about 4WD that puts it on so many people’s must-have list? And what’s the difference between it and other options?

THE LOWDOWN ON 4WD

During normal use, 4WD vehicles transfer the majority of engine power only to the rear wheels. But when additional traction is required, a lever can be switched that then transfers power to all four wheels. (So if one tire loses grip, there are now three others available to help instead of one.) This makes 4WD vehicles more maneuverable in rough terrain and bad weather. That’s why off-road vehicles, snow plows, and tow trucks all have it. The biggest downside to 4WD: It can add several thousand dollars to the sticker price of a new car. All wheel drive (AWD) is a form of 4WD where power is always transferred to all four wheels there’s no lever flipping involved.

Other options include:

FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE (FWD)

In this system, power from the engine is transferred to the front tires, offering increased traction and safety. FWD provides easier handling, especially in harsher weather and snow. Most of today’s popular, mid-priced cars have FWD. REAR-WHEEL DRIVE

With RWD, power from the engine is transferred to the rear tires, splitting the weight of the vehicle evenly between the front and back ends. This allows for better cornering and stopping power, and a smoother ride. Most pickup trucks, sports cars, and luxury sports sedans have RWD. The downside is that RWD cars are harder to handle in poor weather and are prone to spinouts.

Whether 4WD is the best option is probably a matter of opinion. While it’s certainly a nice option, all drive trains will get you where you are going. And keep you safe. 

It may not be the ultimate battle of man vs. machine, but it’s still a match–up worth considering: In the challenge to keep your baby free of dirt and grime, who’s got the right stuff you or the carwash? Here’s how the bucket and sponge compare to the drive–through.

DRIVE–THROUGH CARWASHES

They’re cheap and easy but does that make them worth it? Some say that today’s technology makes the drive–through completely safe on your car’s exterior and superior to hand washing. Others argue that the high impact of the cloths or brushes promotes surface scratches. Touchless or semi–touchless cloth or brush methods help prevent this. So do foam and high–pressure spray techniques. But the chemical agents used in them are typically harsh and can dull paint luster with continued use.

• The upside:

  If pressed for time, it’s the way to go. Can be cheaper, too. (The whole bevy of professional cleaning products add up at the register. Fast.)

• The downside:

  There’s potential for greater exterior wear over time.

  HAND WASHES

  For many car enthusiasts, a good old-fashioned hand wash is the only way to go. Despite the convenience of the carwash, a do-it-yourself wash gives you ultimate control over what touches your vehicle. And, if the right cleaning agents and tools are used, it can be a lot gentler on your car’s surface. What are the wrong ones? Think dishwashing and other harsh detergents, rough sponges and brushes. The right ones? Think professional car shampoos and micro fiber cloths.

▪ The upside:

You have complete control and pride of ownership. Your car benefits from a “softer touch.

▪ The downside:

It’s time-consuming and sometimes back-breaking. Soap and chemical run-offs aren’t environmentally friendly.

Whichever you choose, maintenance is important, whether you change your oil or wash your car. Accumulated dirt eventually works its way into the paint, leaving tiny scratches and dulling the surface. Not a good thing for you high-mileage enthusiasts. Regular washings keep your car looking its best for the longest possible time—and help retain its value. Lather up! 

These days, every little bit you can save at the pump helps especially if you’re planning a long haul. So how can you get the most bang for your gas buck?

1. Keep up with preventative maintenance.

It’s a simple fact: Well–maintained rides are more fuel efficient. Be sure to:

• Use the correct oil for your vehicle and style of driving. Heavy (high viscosity) oil will cause your car’s engine to work harder. Use the lightest grade of oil for your climate and season. Consult your owner’s manual to find out what grade is best suited for you.

• Maintain tire pressure and inspect tires. Every other fill, inspect your tires for under–inflation and excessive tread wear. Be sure to check manufacturer’s specifications/owner’s manual for proper inflation and rotation schedules. Also, consider low–profile tires. Larger tires can greatly reduce fuel efficiency.

• Make sure your coolant is mixed properly. Improperly mixed engine coolant can cause your engine to run hot and hamper fuel economy.

• Replace dirty filters. Dirty or clogged air and fuel filters can cause your car to work harder. A new and properly functioning air or fuel filter will provide better gas mileage.

Replace old or faulty spark plugs, which can reduce fuel economy by as much as 30%.

2. Lighten your load.

An extra 100 pounds in the trunk reduces a typical car’s fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent

• 3. Use less gas by watching your acceleration.
• More than 80% of fuel is burned when you accelerate. So, the more consistently you can maintain your speed, the less gas you use. Some things to keep in mind:
• ▪ If possible, try not to come to a full stop.
• ▪ Don’t fight gravity going uphill.
• ▪ Don’t ride your brakes.
• ▪ Build momentum with a rolling start before accelerating.

▪ Maintain a soft touch: Don’t gun the engine or brake hard. 

Did you know that cooling system failure is the leading cause of mechanical breakdown on the highway? That’s why it is important to maintain the right level of fluids in your radiator. In fact, the same holds true for ALL the fluids in your vehicle. Here is why:

• Engine coolant: Also called antifreeze or radiator fluid, coolant is circulated through your radiator to maintain proper engine temperature. If you do not maintain the right level, your engine can overheat. Coolant helps lubricate your water pump and prevents corrosion in your engine and radiator.

• Brake fluid: The brake system uses fluid to transmit the pressure you apply to the brake pedal to each of the brakes at the wheels. If that fluid is low, so is brake responsiveness.

• Power steering fluid: Your power steering uses a system of belts and pumps to keep the fluid within under pressure. That pressure is what helps you steer the vehicle. When fluid is low, the pressure decreases making steering more difficult.

• Transmission fluid: Whether your car has an automatic or manual transmission, it uses a system of gears to transmit engine power to the wheels. Transmission fluid lubricates those gears and keeps the system running properly.

  As a rule of thumb:

  • Every oil change, or every 3,000 miles, check the engine coolant, brake, power steering, and transmission fluids.

  • Every two years, or every 30,000, completely change your engine coolant and brake fluid.

    You’ve heard the expression, “a well-oiled machine.” Well, maintaining your car’s fluids at their proper level is critical to “greasing its parts” and keeping things running smoothly. Stay hydrated! 

The timing belt is one of your engines most critical components. Waiting for it to wear out or break can result in serious engine damage. What exactly does it do? How will you know when it’s time to replace it? Read on…

WHAT DO TIMING BELTS DO?

The timing belt connects the crankshaft (which controls the engine pistons) to the camshaft (which opens and closes valves). This precision component has teeth that, when in rotation, are perfectly “mated” with matching sprockets. The uniformity of the teeth and their spacing is what keeps valve operation and piston position perfectly synchronized. On some engines, the belt also drives other components, including the oil and water pumps, and balance shafts.

WHEN SHOULD YOU REPLACE A TIMING BELT?

Belt replacement varies by vehicle make and mileage. Check your owner’s manual for suggested maintenance. Here are some warning signs that your timing belt might need to be replaced:

• ▪  Rough idling

• ▪  Chattering and other strange engine noises

• ▪  Difficulty starting the engine

  Even if your car is “symptom free,” it’s still a good idea to check the timing belt regularly. This is especially vital for your higher-mileage vehicle.

  OTHER CONSIDERATIONS DURING TIMING BELT CHANGES

  Changing the timing belt is an involved process. It requires a number of parts to be removed, including: the radiator hose, water pump, and alternator. When you change your belt, you should also consider replacing any other worn-out parts such as other belts, hoses, and clamps.

  Remember, when it comes to maintaining your car’s engine, timing plays a key role when it comes to sustaining high-mileage and high-performance. 

A good waxing does more than make your car gleam in the sunshine: It also protects it from the elements. So how do you make your finish look its best—and last its longest?

You don’t have to wax every time you wash your car- a couple of times a year should suffice. If the finish begins to look a bit dull, or if water is no longer beading on the surface, then it’s likely that a new wax job is in order.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• A freshly washed vehicle. Wax adheres better to a clean surface. And leaving surface dirt on before waxing means you’ll work the particulates into the finish, causing scratches.

• A non-abrasive wax and sponge.

• Cheesecloth, micro fiber cloths, or cloth diapers for buffing. Avoid using old towels. Their stitching and detailing is done with polyester fibers that will scratch the surface.

• A shaded work area. Hot sun can bake the wax into the paint and damage the finish.

• About 30 minutes a little patience, and a lot of elbow grease.

  HOW TO APPLY

  • Use your sponge as the applicator, applying small amounts at a time and working it in well. Avoid using heavy globs. Larger amounts of wax don’t absorb any better. You’ll only be wasting your product.

  • Work in small areas of 2-3 square feet at a time. This ensures each section is coated evenly, and prevents the wax from hardening in one spot while you’re still working on another.

  • Use up and down strokes instead of a circular motion. This prevents swirls.

  • Read the product label for the manufacturer’s recommended drying time. When dry, buff the surface with your clean cloths. If the residue doesn’t buff easily, you either used too much wax or need a fresh cloth.

    WAXING TIPS

  • If you used too much wax, let your car sit in the sun for about 10 minutes. This will melt the wax and allow you to rework the surface. Use this same tip if you have streaks.

  • Shake out your cloths as you use them to prevent wax buildup.

  • Wax your car every 3-4 months. No product will last for up to a year, as many of them claim—unless you do minimal amounts of driving and garage-keep your car.